Winterizing Tips for Your Garden Plot (Zone 5)
“Autumn is a second spring where every leaf is a flower.”
—Albert Camus
[Tips from the Farmer's Almanac (and Laurel at Taylor Street Farms)
HARVESTING VEGETABLES
PREPARING HERBS FOR WINTER
AMENDING AND COVERING UP GARDEN BEDS
Tender vegetables do not tolerate frost and get harvested before frost strikes.
Tomatoes, zucchini, peas, beans, and pumpkins must all be harvested before the frost.
Pull out these plants and all crop debris, except pea roots.
Cut them up! Add branches and plants to the Garden Compost. Fruits and vegetables go to the Kitchen Compost bins.
Discard diseased plants in the trash. Do not leave infected plants on the property nor put them in a compost pile.
Pro Tip: Clip pea and bean plants clip just above the soil rather than pulling them out. The roots help fix nitrogen in your soil.
Hardy vegetables will tolerate hard frosts (usually 25° to 28°F) and can be left in the ground. They often taste better after a light frost.
Brussels sprouts can stay in the ground. Bury plants up to their tops in hay or leaves in late fall, then pull off the little sprouts as needed through winter.
Cooking greens like kale and collards actually become a bit sweeter in the fall and winter when touched by frost.
Broccoli and spinach may also survive through the winter without any protection.
Plant your garlic in October or November and let it overwinter for next year’s summer crop.
Semi-hardy vegetables tolerate light frosts (usually 29° to 32°F). Many of these slightly more sensitive crops benefit greatly from some sort of protection such as a cold-frame or floating row cover, or you can simply harvest them before serious frosts have set in.
Arugula, leeks, mustard greens, cauliflower, English peas, and kohlrabican die when unprotected during periods of extreme winter cold. A simple row cover can make all the difference.
Cabbages and Swiss chard can withstand light frosts, but outside leaves may get damaged or tough (just peel them away before using the rest of the greens).
Root crops (like carrots, turnips, beets, rutabagas, and parsnips) can remain in the garden after a frost and still be removed in good condition later, but get them dug and stored before the ground freezes.
Potatoes can also stay in the soil, but it is important that they are not left on the soil surface for any period of time. Dig and remove the potatoes to a dry, warm area out of the sun to begin the process of letting the skin toughen up for storage. Dry in a single layer and turn periodically. This takes about two weeks. Carefully remove visible dirt from the potatoes, but do not wash them: their skins will toughen for longer winter storage.
PREPARING HERBS FOR WINTER
Herbs are a mixed bag when it comes to needing winter protection. Some are very hardy and can easily tolerate a cold season, while others will need some extra help.
Basil is a tender annual that won’t survive winter outside in Chicago. Dig up small plants and bring them inside to extend their season.
Chives are hardy perennials. Dig up and pot a clump, then let the foliage die down and freeze for several weeks. Bring the pot indoors to a sunny, cool spot. Water well and harvest chives throughout the winter.
Parsley, a biennial, will withstand a light frost. In Zone 5 or colder, cover it on cold nights. It has a long taproot and does not transplant well.
Oregano is a somewhat hardy perennial that will appreciate some winter protection in the form of a layer of straw mulch.
Rosemary is a tender evergreen perennial that should be pulled or brought inside for the winter. Read more about overwintering rosemary.
Sage is a perennial in most areas and does not need special winter treatment. Before frost stops its growth, cut a branch or two to dry and use at Thanksgiving!
Tarragon and Thyme are hardy perennials. They will go dormant in the fall, then revive in the spring.
AMENDING AND COVERING UP GARDEN BEDS
Although many add it in the spring, you want to add compost in late autumn to allow the soil to soak up those nutrients over the winter.
Add a couple of inches of compost on top of your bed any time before the ground freezes.
Then add a light layer of straw or leaves, or mulch to prevent nutrient leaching and weed development.
Find out what constitutes healthy soil from the Farmer's Almanac article on preparing soil for planting.
Another option is to sow cover crops, such as winter rye or field peas. See the Farmer's Almanac article on Cover Crops to improve the health of your soil.